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2020 Transit Crew AWD Crew Build

Updated: 9 hours ago

We don't build a lot of Transits but thought we finally will tackle a "simple" Transit build our way keeping it very simple. We started with a Crew- because it has rear seating, rear air bags, and its pretty economical compared to a Sprinter. Having said that Transits are way harder to build with a lot less product support and the Crew van interior is really strange...you get "half" of an interior. We have some photos below next to a 4WD Sprinter with wheels and a stock high roof Transit. You can see how funky the interior is. The van is also kinda ugly, we will knock the ugly out on this build with a lift kit, roof rack, rims/tires, and maybe a few other things that will really help in the looks department as well as get more ground clearance. The Transits have really bad ground clearance and departure angles.









Priority is getting a rear floor in the van so we can protect the rear and level everything out. We decided to keep the stock front floor...its composite/ plastic so durable and easy to clean. We want to keep this budget in check and will work with it as well as there are plastic trim pieces that if we changed the height of the flooring would make a lot more work. The idea here is to keep things simple and focus on function and practicality in this build. We start with making a sub floor, with out a template, something that takes a bit of time. Since the front floor is raised so high we will have to as well level it out to the front...so basically making two floors then deciding what we will cover it with next and trim it out. Its simple but floors are really time consuming to do. Its too bad Ford did not have a full floor option on a crew. This for sure can be an all day job just making a template...or actually several as we have two layers of wood and due to funky angles on the wheel wells you the layers are both different.


There are many things that make the Transit a more difficult van to modify/upfit other than lack of aftermarket support, convex walls, hardened steel, ... is if you dealing with a passenger van or crew van you deal with a huge headliner taking up a ton of space and air bags. Here is photo behind the front headliner in a Crew trim van. The airbags make the van safer, but as you can see are a problem in regards to installing L track or any upper storage as not only is the gap a problem but he air bag interference is as well, but you do get a "A" for safety for the kids in the back unlike in a Sprinter. This also makes the van not as appealing as a Sprinter for sure for up-fit. We will be pulling this down to put sound deadening and insulation to get the van cooler. This is a must in California if you want your van to be as cool as possible and warmer in winter. Not to mention a lot quieter as well.


So a bit more progress...to many customer vans and back ordered parts have made it difficult to get things going on this build. Finally pulled the headliner down (the 1/2 headliner that is). I use Raam Mat sound deadener, I find this is a superior product to what most use for their builds then lay down 3M Thinsulate over that. This really provides a really nice result. You can see a lot of care is given to make sure coverage is very good. Try to get all the major nook and crannies. It takes a long time to do this to a van. In the end all the walls, roof, and doors will be done. Surprisingly this van is actually pretty quiet stock, but its really hot. It was a hot day and the roof inside had to be at least 130-160 degrees, once this is done, you can barely feel the heat at all at the headliner. Its a huge difference well worth the effort and costs. Its expensive to do and can take easily 3-5 full days for an average person to do, but we consider this a must have. It is likely we will put some insulation as well on the floor just to help out as well with noise and some heat from the exhaust, but not anything super extensive like on some of our builds to keep costs down. You can easily spend $1000 in material alone just to insulate and sound deaden your floor. The back roof is not done yet as I have to figure out how to mount the upper storage bags in the back. Not sure if we will use Campo or MOAB, its a bit tricky to use the MOAB but will have to see. Electrical as well will be ran while I am doing this. We are going with more of a "DIY" solution for this van with a Goal Zero 3000x. It will be charge by solar as well as option to charge with alternator as well. More than enough power to run a fridge, lights, and power phones or lap tops, and a few 12v DC outlets. It has a built in inverter and is big enough to run a microwave or hot plate as well as long as you be mindful of the size of the battery bank.






Some suspension parts as well showed up from Van Compass. The Transit is painfully low to the ground, so much so its a problem just getting up in some driveways. Going to put a 2" lift on it. Why not a 2.5" lift? This actually causes at full droop issues with the front axle's and potential premature wear. Their are no aftermarket wheels available for the super weird 99mm off set Transit put on the AWD's. (Stupid) So we will just black out the OEM stock steel wheels and put a set of 255's on them. This is the largest size before you have to do some major trimming. We want this van to be super practical rather than cool, but not functional.



The van continues to be super strange, the front floor is made out of super thin wood layer with foam blocks to rest on. Changing it however doesn't give a big upside as we don't plan on boltign anything down/through it otherwise you would have to build an entirely new floor. -not ideal because this thing is raised really high and you have to deal with the floor brackets. As it is its much cleaner looking with the stock floor as is. This pick shows what it looks like with the front floor out when taking measurements for the front floor covering we will do in the next week or so.


Here we pulled the rubber mat off the front floor, we plan on putting interwoven vinyl on top of it instead to give a much nicer looks as well as it will add a bit of insulation and padding. This stuff is used in Pontoon boats, so its perfect for So Cal or out door use and will really improve the look of the interior. Its not cheap however and ideally you need to pull the floor to get a good template to cut it from.

Lift kit installed, tires are still back ordered but you can tell this gained 2 " in front and about 2.5/3 in back. Kept the front limited to 2" as I mentioned to keep the cv joints within spec and reduce any excessive wear. The Fox rear shocks in the back made the rear stiffer as expected but when weight it added it should be a nice tight ride. This is a very much needed modification on the AWD's they are very low to the ground and have no clearance compared to the Sprinter. Great to make it easy to get in/out of, but would not be ideal on dirt roads. This brings it similar to what you would get in a stock Sprinter 4WD. I will also have to modify the rear shock bracket, that is off the ground about 6 inches...you have to cut it and use a bracket to gain a few more inches there.



Shock mount modification. After lifting the van you still have the rear show super low, below the rim even. Here we show stock and after stock modification using a relocation bracket. A bit of cutting is needed to relocate the shock. Its seems small, but its a huge difference needed as well optimizes the Fox Shocks articulation.


Stock


Modified-WAY better.



Back ordered forever, finally swapped the factory windows for some AMA windows. You have to remove a lot of the plastic trim to enable a window installer to remove the factory window without damaging the van. It is really easy to damage paint when removing factory windows, these in particular are a very tight fit. Not a simple swap like on a cargo van. Why the front windows? You need to move air through the van to cool it down, so when fan is in back, you must vent from front of van, in this case the OEM front window positions with vents and screens provide the appropriate air flow to keep the van cooler during hot weather. You cannot use CRL windows to swap out factory ones as the opening is to large.




Finally got around to deal with the floor, this is a really big project time wise. Started with making the rear section and building it up level to the front floor, add sound deadener and insulation on the floor,(the Transit is actually really quiet for a stock van) but the front stock floor was so thin that I decided to do this front and back since I had the floor out. This van will be really quiet for sure, way beyond stock. Insulating and sound deadening the floor is really nice, but you use a lot of material and its pretty expensive to do because of the square footage. Its not 100% needed for most people but decided to go the extra mile in this build. I as well ran power cord through the wall for the Goal Zero 3000x (not the easiest thing to do to keep it clean and hidden) and insulated and sound deadend the slider door as well. The slider has some insulation on the panel, adding what I did will make it 300% better. I still have to do trim pieces for the floor mid-line and in the rear door area to complete the floor. I have custom seats ordered as well to replace the stock seat that was to wide to be functional for a campervan.


The final flooring material used is interwoven vinyl, this is a really nice floor material. Its not cheap, but works well with moisture and beach environments. Its used in boats, so perfect for a van. Gives a real upscale look as well, helps with reducing noise, and adds some insulation factor as well. There are several types that can be used, all of which I use have flocked backing that allows the floor to move around with hot/cold and is a must. A regular vinyl floor will not have flocked backing and not work the same and not have nylon weave for strength in the material. This stuff however is pretty expensive for a flooring material.




Flooring is almost done...looks a lot better than stock. If you have a stock van you can add just coin flooring in the back to match the front to keep costs and labor down and still have a nice result.




So a bit more work...BFG KO2 255/16's. We will black out the rims to give a better look. With a 99mm offset no wheels are available yet for the AWD's. This really took care of the ground clearance issue, not its on par with a Sprinter


Some updated interior pics with floor trim and one wall panel done.





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